Last Day - Inuinnaqtun

It is Friday morning, my last day in the Arctic. For now, anyway.  I am happy to be going home, but also sad to be leaving all of the wonderful people I have met. I love being up here and meeting so many interesting people and hearing their stories. It is a completely different culture that I have been experiencing and I feel that I have learned a lot and will continue to learn even more on my future trips. Right now it is time for me to go home and recharge.

I will leave you with a little language lesson. My clerk, and friend, Helen would give me lessons whenever we had some downtime, so I will pass on a little about what I learned.

Inuinnaqtun is the dialect spoken in this region. It is similar to Inuktitut, but definitely not the same and they do not use syllabics either. Here are some common words and phrases to try!

• Kanogitpin - How are you?
• Namaktunga - I'm fine, thank you.
• Ilvitli - and you?
• Ublagot - Good morning.
• Ublugon - Good afternoon.
• Ullapa - I'm cold!
• Quana - Thanks!

Helen's dog is called Umiak, this means whiskers. I have decided that the next animal that finds its way into my home will be called Umiak! So cute!

A Beer Dance, Bazaar, Telethon and a Blonde Haired Alien

The weekend presented us with a couple of challenges. Friday night there was a beer dance, which meant that everyone was hungover or possibly still drunk by the time Saturday rolled around. We had a full day of patients booked from 9 to 6, the appointments had all been made the day before. Only one patient showed up! Talk about a long and frustrating day. I spent most of my time cleaning and organizing since the last dental team left a bit of a mess. By the afternoon you could find me relaxing in the dental chair reading some outdated magazines. There was also a bazaar Saturday afternoon that everyone was going to. All of the local artists stop by to see me, so I didn't bother going to check it out. There are some fantastic artists in Kugluktuk. I have been shown beautiful carvings, mittens and kamiks (boots made from caribou and seal skin that have incredible hand embroidery).

Sunday we had booked from noon until 6, knowing that the radio telethon was being held the night before we didn't bother trying to book the morning. My clerk Helen showed up and informed me that there was also a funeral going on, the majority of the community usually attend. We had about 5 patients show up, which was fine for me. The darkness is starting to get to me and I am getting pretty tired up here. Don't underestimate how important the sun is!!

Now, the infamous blonde haired alien...Only one of these strange, pale creatures has been spotted in Kugluktuk, it wears a raspberry parka and seems to respond to the name Rebecca. Yes, I am the blonde haired alien! At least according to the young girls, I seem to be. I saw two girls that were around twelve years old on Friday who wanted to book appointments, they kept on starring at me and giggling. I asked them what was so funny but never got an answer, they just kept starring. The next day, they returned, this time with two more friends. Now I had four little girls who were giggling at me and unable to answer any questions. I told the sonographer, Denise, what had happened and that I had no idea what they were up to. She looked at me and told me that it is probably my blonde hair that they are getting a kick out of. Maybe before my next trip I will have to dye my hair brown...

Kugluktuk

On Thursday the weather finally cleared enough for the airport to reopen. It had been shut down for four days due to bad weather and blizzard conditions.

I shut down the clinic and prepared to leave for my next destination. I was a little sad leaving Cambridge, mostly because I like working with Jana so much. We hugged goodbye and hopefully we will see each other in January.

Our plane landed about 45 minutes late, but everyone was happy and relieved that it was able to land. Unfortunately, the winds began to pick up and visibility was poor again so we had to wait for the weather to clear a little in order to take off. After waiting another hour or so, we were able to board. It is only a 50 minute flight from Cambridge Bay to Kugluktuk, and before I knew it we were finally in our last community.

The taxi picked us up at the airport to bring us to the Coppermine Inn. It was a large old van with cracks in the window and seemed to be on it's last legs, but it was going to get us where we needed to go, so I can't complain. We were told that it would be $15, I was a little shocked and checked if the price was per person. Yep, it was. It's only a five minute drive! We dropped the first passenger home, only to get stuck in the snow when we tried to turn around. Thankfully a man with a big truck was driving by and noticed we needed help. He tied a sling between each vehicle and was able to pull the van out of the snow.

The Coppermine Inn is a quaint two story hotel. There is a wood stove in the lobby and a huge polar bear hide and head as decoration on the wall. As soon as we walked in we could smell something delicious cooking, they were making pork chops for supper. I usually hate pork chops, but after two weeks of freeze dried food and tuna, a home-cooked meal would be nice. We were informed that dinner would be $50 dollars if we were interested, breakfasts were $30 and lunches $35.

Weather Day AKA Snow Day Even For Adults

Last night I had a difficult time sleeping. All I could hear was howling winds making my apartment rattle and shake. I woke up this morning and finally looked out my window to not be able to see anything except blowing snow and darkness. I could barely see the house across the street. Now this is a blizzard!

This is my second weather day, the first was Monday afternoon, I was surprised that the town was shut down as it was just a minor snow storm. We kept the clinic open, but only had two patients show even though we had confirmed with everyone that we would be staying open during the storm.

I assumed that we would not bother going in this morning, but got a hold of Terry just to make sure. I assumed wrong, and was not terribly impressed that I had to go into the raging storm. I reluctantly gathered my scarf, mitts, ear pockets and boots, which, not very conveniently broke yesterday. I can no longer zip them up. I grabbed my raspberry parka and finished my ensemble with ski goggles. I hesitantly opened the door and got pushed back by some very strong winds and a face full of snow, thought to myself, this is crazy and walked out into the storm anyway.

Every step was a challenge in the strong wind gusts. I truly thought that I was going to be picked up and fly away with the blowing snow. Walking up my street I was sure that there was a stop sign at the intersection, but I could not see it. I continued walking until I finally saw the stop sign when it was a couple of metres ahead of me. There were no people, cars or ski-doos on the road, everyone else was smart enough to stay inside.  It was quite eerie walking in the seemingly abandoned town in a ridiculous storm with a night sky as the backdrop but I continued on to the clinic with the winds helping to push me along.

I finally made it to the clinic, tried to unlock and open the door, but was stopped by ice build up so I turned around and went back home. I called Terry with the bad news. He is worried about getting cabin fever and wants to re-evaluate the situation at noon. I can tell you right now there is no way I am stepping foot outside my door again today. I am going to stay in my pyjamas, read, write, watch some TV and try to enjoy my snow day.

 

View from my living room window.
It's not an unclear picture,
this is what it actually looks like outside.

Blizzard warning for Cambridge Bay

Current WeatherWed. Dec 7, 2011, 7:00 MST Cambridge Bay

Details

A low pressure system moving east towards Northern Hudson Bay has created blizzard conditions for many sites in the Arctic. Strong winds gusting up to 90 km/h behind the low have developed blizzard conditions in Kugluktuk, Cambridge Bay, Gjoa Haven and Taloyoak. Kugluktuk is expected to improve this afternoon as winds decrease while the other communities will not improve until Thursday.

-14

°C

• °C
• °F

Blowing snow

• Feels Like : -29
• Wind : N 74km/h
• Wind gusts : 85km/h

• Relative Humidity : 78%
• Pressure : 99.45 kPa
• Visibility : 0.2 km
• Ceiling : 2500 ft

It's Eleven O'Clock Somewhere...

My clerk Bernadette showed up for work on Friday and was great. She did her work without my asking and she even helped me sterilize instruments. Overall, I was very impressed with her and was looking forward to working with her until we leave for Kugluktuk on Wednesday.

It's Saturday morning and I expect Bernie to show up at nine, after-all, she told me Friday night that she would be seeing me tomorrow at that time. Ten o'clock comes around and Bernie is still MIA and I could really use some help. I decide to give her a call and see if she is planning on coming in to work.

I dial her phone number...
She answers, "Hello".
"Bernie, are you coming to help me at work today"?
She responds in slight confusion, "Is it nine o'clock already"!?
"No Bernie, it's ten o'clock".
"Ohhhh. I'm so sorry my dear, but I am slightly intoxicated right now".
"Are you serious"? I say with a slight laugh. "Can you at least come in for one"?
"Oh no. Not today. I will try to sober up for tomorrow at one though."
There is not much I can do in this situation except laugh and hope that I will see her Sunday afternoon.

Arctic College

It's not often that I meet young people in the communities who think about post secondary education, or even finishing high school, but I had the pleasure of meeting two inspiring young women on Friday. Both had moved to Cambridge Bay from their communities and are enrolled at Nunavut Arctic College (this is a link if you are interested in seeing the schools and courses offered). Programs such as traditional fur design and production, camp cook, teacher education, health care and skilled trades are designed specifically for life in Nunavut.

My first patient enrolled in the two year social work program. She is looking forward to gaining an education and bringing it back to her home town to help better the lives of people in the community. I was telling her about the work my cousin does as a violence against women councillor. She seemed almost surprised that there was a need for such a councillor down South, but also motivated and excited to hear about another woman like her who was working in the field.

My second patient was in her early twenties and had two children with her common law partner. (On a side note - no one ever seems to say boyfriend or girlfriend. If they have been together long enough and have children they always refer to their partner as their "common-law".) She is enrolled in her first year of a three year program to become a midwife. When someone is going to have a baby in the communities it is extremely common to be sent to Yellowknife for labour and delivery. Remember that up here there are no permanent doctors, only a health clinic staffed with a couple of nurses (who are incredible, by the way!). She was telling me about her experience when having her two babies. She was sent away, her family was not able to be go with her, she was all alone in an unfamiliar place and had to deliver her children without the love and support of her family and friends. She was so upset when she was recalling this story to me. I can't imagine what it must have been like for a mother to go through that. Her sad experience has motivated her to do something about the situation, to make a difference in her community. After three years, she will go back home with her family. As she says, "I am going to make sure that no one has to go through what I went through".

My spirits have been lifted! Now to brave the cold for my walk home. It's minus 31C and feels like minus 45C!

The Midwifery Program, offered in partnership with the Department of Health and Social Services, prepares graduates to enter into midwifery practice in Nunavut.

The program introduces students to the cultural, spiritual and traditional practices of Inuit midwives and is also designed to reflect the goals, values and ethical codes established as territorial and national standards and regulations.Specifically, graduates will be able to meet standards set by the Canadian Midwifery Regulatory Committee (CMRC) and provide care that is culturally appropriate for and acceptable to the residents of Nunavut.

Pink Snow Ninja

Our first day seeing patients in clinic was Thursday. I am a bit behind on my blogging and am trying to catch up....

I woke up to my iPhone alarm at 6am, pressed snooze a couple of times and finally dragged myself out of bed at 6:45. It was pitch black outside, not that this is different from down South at this time of year. I made some tea, ate my breakfast and got ready to go. I bundled up in my raspberry goose-down jacket, ear pockets, boots, mitts, and covered my face up to my eyes with my favourite brown, soft and fuzzy scarf that Farah made for me. After putting my fur-lined hood on nice and tight to finish my ensemble you would not be able to recognize me except for the small slit for my eyes to see through. I was now a pink with brown accessories snow ninja ready to brave the cold!

When I got to the clinic, I overheard people in the other offices talking about what a nice morning it was. This confused me slightly as it was at least minus 25 C, not including the wind chill. Eventually a familiar face came around the corner, it was Jana, the dental coordinator. I met Jana on my last trip, she had just started the job at that point, six months later she is now a pro and doing a fantastic job. My clerk never showed up for work, but thankfully Jana stayed to help with reception. By 10:30 I looked out the window to finally see some daylight, by 2:30 the sky was black again. Jana and I discussed the importance of vitamin D especially being in the North. The sun is never actually in the sky at this time of year, daylight is probably better described as dusk.

Clinic was busy with the typical extractions and simple restorations that seem never-ending in the North. The day eventually came to an end and I headed home to boil some water to make my freeze-dried beef stroganoff.

Déjà vu

It's Wednesday morning and I am back at the airport. Glen jokes that we are going to take the 737 out for a little spin and end up back where we started. I sincerely hope not!

We all waited in line to check in with Canadian North. I checked in only to find out that there is a problem with my ticket in the system and head office had to be called to sort things out. I waited patiently for an hour before the front desk person returned. As I am waiting I hear announcements that that the flight to Rankin has been cancelled due to weather. The person checking in beside me was supposed to be on that flight and was now looking for a place to stay in the fully booked Yellowknife hotels. Thankfully, I find out that my ticket is good to go and there are no warnings of bad weather in Cambridge, so far at least.

We boarded our little plane and were off to Kugluktuk for our first stop. The captain made an announcement that the weather is good enough to take a shot at landing in Cambridge, we all had a sigh of relief. Another hour in the air and we were able to make a safe landing.

We were picked up at the airport and brought to our apartments at the Green Row. I was given my key for 1E, the exact same apartment as my last trip! It was about 2pm by this point, I quickly had a snack and headed down to the dental clinic within twenty minutes. It took a while to find everything we needed. This is one problem with having so many different teams come in, we all have different ideas of where things should be stored. Eventually, I found what I needed. It didn't take long for people to notice the lights were on in the clinic. Within a half hour people started walking in to book appointments. An artist also stopped by to sell some hand made slippers.

I left for home around five, satisfied that I was ready to see patients the next day. The sky had been pitch black since around 2:30ish, but the street I walk to get home was quite well lit. I was happy to be somewhere familiar and started to settle in by unpacking all of my food and clothes for the next week.

Later in the evening there was a knock on my door. I answered to find a couple, the gentleman was an artist with some pretty soapstone inukshuks and caribou antler pendants (a cross section of the antler with an inukshuk carved out in the centre and painted purple). I swear the artists are on watch for any new people to the community, and when they find out, word spreads quickly. I love seeing their work, though, and don't find them to be bothersome, if anything I enjoy meeting as many people as possible. Luckily for this particular artist my favourite colour is purple and I could not resist the antler pendant.

Sorry about the picture quality, it's much nicer in person.